Dr Dimas Andrianto Explained Various Efficacy Tests of In Vitro Cosmetics and Their Development
With increasing public interest in skin health, the cosmetic industry is also increasingly aggressively developing new cosmetic technologies. Moreover, cosmetics must have properties according to claims that need to be verified.
IPB University lecturer from the Department of Biochemistry, Faculty of Mathematics and Natural Sciences (FMIPA), Dr Dimas Andrianto digs deeper into the in vitro cosmetic efficacy test technique and its development. As an expert, his research focuses on developing methods, both safety and efficacy analysis of cosmetic products and the utilization of biodiversity for cosmetic raw materials.
"Skin problems that people commonly complain about include wrinkles, dark spots or hypermelanoma, large pores, scars, pimples and panda eyes. This skin problem can occur due to various factors. For example, smoking and pollution are closely related to free radicals," said Dr Dimas.
He added, free radicals involve the process of oxidation of skin cells. In addition, individual genetic factors or the diversity of the microbiome in the skin, stress and lifestyle also affect the condition of the skin. Ultraviolet (UV) radiation that exposes the skin can produce oxygen radicals in the form of superoxide and peroxide.
"These two compounds cause an oxidative stress reaction that affects the process of gene expression. This activity is analyzed in vitro to test the efficacy of cosmetics, especially claims for antioxidant properties," he said in the 6th SGI Series Genomic Talk Webinar on the topic 'Microbiome in the Skin: In vitro Cosmetic Efficacy Test Techniques and Its Development' which was held by the Saraswanti Genomic Institute ( 17/03).
This researcher from the IPB University Science Study Center explained that antioxidant tests can generally be carried out on oral and topical cosmetics. Selectable mechanisms include inhibition of lipid oxidation, radical scavenging assays and inhibition of advanced glycation end products (AGEs). This test is carried out on cosmetic products such as moisturizing creams, skin lightening creams and sunscreens.
In addition to the antioxidant test, continued Dr Dimas, the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) test is also required for sunscreen cream products. The determination of the SPF value was carried out in vitro using a spectrophotometer. “A yeast test is also carried out to test the SPF value of sunscreen products. Yeast was chosen as the test medium because it is susceptible to exposure to UV rays," he continued.
Another dreaded skin problem is acne. He explained, the microflora on the skin can generally cause skin breakouts. Four bacteria namely Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus, Staphylococcus epidermidis and Propionibacterioum acnes are indicators of skin health.
The formation of biofilms on the skin due to these bacteria can cause inflammation and acne. In anti-acne cosmetics, research has been conducted on antibacterial tests for anti-acne activity against four bacteria. For example, clindamycin extract was tested for bacterial mitochondrial activity.
"The development of cosmetic testing in the future will focus more on the microbiome of the skin in diverse environments and lifestyles or skin problems based on genetics due to genetic diversity in Indonesia," he concluded. (MW/Rz) (IAAS/SHY)
