Beware of ‘Fake’ Wagyu Beef: IPB University Expert Reveals How to Identify It
Wagyu beef is known as one of the most expensive cuts of beef in the world. However, does the wagyu beef available in Indonesia and other countries always come from its country of origin, Japan?
According to Prof Ronny Rachman Noor, an expert in Ecological Genetics at IPB University, not all the wagyu available on the market including in Indonesia originates from Japan. Although they share the same name, the quality of Japanese wagyu differs significantly from that of other countries.
“For example, many restaurants in the US offer wagyu on their menus, but the meat doesn’t necessarily come from Japan. “In fact, most of the Wagyu beef available in the US isn’t imported from Japan, but comes from cattle raised there,” he explained.
He elaborated that outside of Japan, Wagyu beef typically comes from crossbred cattle usually a mix of 50% Wagyu and 50% Angus. The rearing process is also not as strict as in Japan.
“In the US, the meat grading system differs from Japan’s, using USDA Prime/Choice standards without specific wagyu designations. Wagyu cattle in the US are more ‘meaty’ compared to those in Japan,” he explained.
In fact, he noted, the distinctive quality of authentic Japanese wagyu lies in its high intramuscular fat content (marbling). When seared briefly, this fat melts, creating a unique aroma and flavor profile distinct from ordinary meat.
In its country of origin, however, Wagyu grading is extremely strict, using A–C (yield), 1–5 (quality), and beef marbling standard (BMS) 1–12. Grade A5 and BMS 10–12 are considered the highest.
“Authentic Japanese wagyu is very expensive, costing at least US$200 per kg for steak. Premium cuts can be even more expensive due to strict rearing processes, pure genetics, and the official A5 grading system, which can only be achieved in Japan,” explained Prof Ronny.
Australia itself is the largest producer of Wagyu outside of Japan, accounting for approximately 18% of the global total, followed by the United States and New Zealand. Other countries producing Wagyu in smaller quantities include Canada, the United Kingdom, Germany, Taiwan, Hong Kong, and Singapore, which also import Wagyu cattle or crossbreed with them.
How to Identify Authentic Japanese Wagyu
Prof Ronny noted that the primary way to identify authentic Japanese Wagyu is by checking the official certificate from the Japan Meat Grading Association (JMGA). The certificate typically lists the cattle’s identification number, the prefecture of origin (Hyogo, Miyazaki, Kagoshima, and others), the grade (A3–A5), and the BMS.
“Even if we look more closely at the 10 digit certificate number, we can trace it back to the original farm,” he added.
He emphasized, “On that certificate, the ‘A5’ label is only valid if the meat was actually graded in Japan. So, terms like ‘A5 style’ or ‘Kobe style’ outside Japan are purely for marketing and also indicate that the meat does not originate from Japan.”
Given this situation, he hopes consumers will understand that wagyu sold outside Japan including in Indonesia is generally not authentic Japanese wagyu. This is to ensure the public remains vigilant, avoids being deceived, and does not pay a premium for ‘fake’ wagyu.
“Learn to recognize ‘fake’ terms like ‘style’ and ‘inspired’. Buy from official distributors and check the JMGA certificate don’t rely solely on photos. Hopefully, our consumers can enjoy wagyu without being deceived by those false claims,” Prof Ronny advised. (*/Rz) (IAAS/LAN)
