Processing Sacha Inchi Seeds into Cosmetic Ingredients, IPB Researcher’s Work Included in the 117 Indonesian Innovations 2025 List
An innovation named “Etil Ester Sacha Inchi,” developed by researchers at IPB University, has been selected as one of the 117 Innovations of Indonesia 2025 by the Business Innovation Center (BIC). This innovation is considered to have great potential as a locally sourced raw material for cosmetics that is gentler on the skin, while also supporting the self reliance of the national industry.
Dr Dwi Setyaningsih, an innovator and lecturer in Agricultural Industrial Technology at IPB University, explained that sacha inchi is a plant native to South America that has now adapted well to Indonesia.
“This plant grows easily in tropical regions, so it has great potential to be developed as a local commodity,” she said.
She revealed that sacha inchi oil is rich in essential fatty acids, particularly omega-3, omega-6, and omega-9. The omega-3 content alone accounts for about 50 percent, making it one of the top plant-based sources. These compounds play a role in maintaining skin health, such as moisturizing the skin, improving elasticity, and supporting collagen production.
Furthermore, Dr Dwi explained that the innovation developed involves converting the oil into ethyl esters to enhance its performance as a cosmetic ingredient.
Ethyl esters have many advantages. “Ethyl esters are made using ethanol and are safer because they are non toxic. Compared to methyl esters, which use methanol, this approach is more suitable for products applied directly to the skin,” she explained.
“Another advantage is that ethyl esters are thinner than oils, so they absorb more easily into the skin and do not leave a greasy feeling,” added Dr Dwi.
In contrast to its lighter texture, ethyl ester also boasts a higher purity level because it undergoes a separation process to remove impurities such as gum and glycerol. As a result, this ingredient is more stable and suitable for use in cosmetic formulations such as serums and daily creams.
Not only that, but the natural antioxidants such as tocopherols and tocotrienols that remain intact in sacha inchi oil also provide protection against oxidation, thereby enhancing the stability of cosmetic products.
The combination of unsaturated fatty acids and antioxidants makes sacha inchi oil ethyl ester a potential active ingredient for natural skincare products.
However, Dr Dwi emphasized that the use of ethyl esters is currently focused on the cosmetics sector, while the food industry still uses the natural oil form. She also noted that the market potential for this product is quite significant, in line with the increasing trend toward natural cosmetics globally.
“This innovation is expected to reduce reliance on imported ingredients like olive oil, while also empowering local farmers,” she said. (dr) (IAAS/PRO)
